m 



Natural and Artificial 

Indian Runner 
Duck Culture 




~ : : V^* ^^^i^ 



LEVI D. YODER 

Dublin, Bucks County, Penna. 



Price Seventy-five Cen^s 



^Natural and Artificials 



Indian Runner 
Duck Culture 




Published ty 



LEVI D. YODER 



Dublin, Bucks County, Penna, 




Copyrighted by 

Levi D. Yoder 

Dublin, Pa. 

1910 



©CI.A27481I 



CONTENTS 

Natural and Artificial Indian Runner Ducks 11 

Starting the Incubator 14 

Transfer Ducklings — 15 

How to Make a Brooder 18 

Care and Feed 19 

What to Feed Ducks for Laying 21 

Fattening Feed 22 

Housing Ducks 23 

To Obtain Best Results. 26 

Habits and Origin ol Runners 27 

Experience and Advice , 31 

In-breeding 36 

Mating Your Pens 37 

Another Form ol Mating 38 

Crossing Breeds • 38 

First Class Breeding Stock 39 

Markings ol Color 42 

Formula for Growing Stock 47 

Feeding Formula lor Ducks 47 

Formula lor Laying Ducks 48 

Fattening Formula 48 

Dont's 49 

Telling Difference in Sex 5 1 

Marketing 5 1 

Care ol Ducklings 52 

Laying Record for 1909 53 

S. C. Black Minorcas 55 

R. C. Black Minorcas.. 56 

S, C. White Minorcas 57 

S. C. R. I. Reds 58 

Belgian Hares 59 

Price 60 

Terms ■• 6Q 

Buildings • • 6 1 

Preparing for the Show Room 62 

Eggs lor Hatching 63 

Details in General 64 




L. D. Yoder, Proprietor Triangle Poultry Yard 




ory 

Our original motive in publishing this, little book on 
Indian Runner Ducks was one of self defense, to relieve 
ourselves in a measure of our correspondence which was 
becoming much too large for the time at our disposal. 
After a long day's toil, attending to the wants increasing 
flocks of Runners, which need their daily attention, the 
last work would be looking over our daily mail; letters and 
postals asking all manner of questions concerning prices, 
hatching, housing, feeding, killing, and many other 
questions. In detail, there are not hours enough in the 
twenty-four for our daily work and our correspondence. 
This book is published to relieve us of all manner of 
questions still coming in far beyond our ability to answer. 
As this is our first edition our aim is to give you real facts 
with all our many experiments which meant time, hard 
labor, and money for your service at the cost of this 
book. In the few years we spent in rearing these ducks 
we do not pretend to say that we know all, but by per- 
sistent efforts and careful selection in breeding, we have 
succeeded in developing an extra fine laying strain with 
the best markings in color, carriage and size. 

We would say that there is no domestic bird under 
so perfect control, so free from disease as the Indian 
Runner Duck. From the time the little bird is hatched 
until it is full growii and is ready to reproduce its own 



species it is under the perfect control of the intelligent 
operator, who knows how to produce feathers, flesh and 
bones, and compels it to lay when from five to six 
months old. All this lies in the treatment, care and 
feed. If you perform your work rightly, the Indian 
Runner Ducks cannot help but lay cogs. On the other 
hand, reckless feeding and improper food for the little 
ducklings is disaster and sure to follow the operator. 
Select strong", healthy, vigorous stock ; select best eggs, 
and set either hen or a good make of incubator, and with 
proper attention you cannot fail to succeed in rearing 
Indian Runner Ducks, either for pleasure, profit or fancy 
trade. 

With healthy, vigorous, parent stock, judicious 
care and food, there is no reason why good hatches of 
strong, healthy, young birds may not be obtained, and 
same matured with very little loss. - However, I want to 
caution every reader of this book not to use any salt for 
seasoning the feed of your young ducks, as it will surely 
mean a loss of birds. 

NOTICE: Questions are cheerfully answered il a two cent 
stamp is enclosed for reply. 



Natural and Artificial Indian Runner 
Duck Culture. 

It is only during the last few years that the value of 
the Indian Runner Duck has awakened the poultry inter- 
ests to their real value as a layer of large, green and 
white eggs of much value. Their meat is one of the 
best for stewing, broiling, and roasting. Of late our 
physicians recognized them to be the most palatable 
meats, wholesome and nutritious, of all our flesh diets. 

Duck culture now assumes a most important part in 
the poultry business. The reason is very plain; people 
are just realizing that ducks can be raised better than 
chickens, with less loss, half the labor, will mature in 
eight or ten weeks ready for market, and ready for lay- 
ing from four and one-half or six months, depending on 
the feeding and care the attendant gives them. Again 
we say there is no strain of poultry or ducks that will 
yield as many eggs as the Indian Runner Duck will if 
proper care is taken. They take less care and. less feed 
than any other strain. Our markets are just learning 
the difference between the Indian Runner Ducks and all 
other strains. The Runner produces just enough fat to 
broil nicely and sweetly where other kinds are overfat, 
have a greasy taste, and the unfortunate housewife turns 
about three to four pounds into the waste bucket when 
the price, considered low, is twenty cents a pound, but 
when put in the waste bucket it means from sixty to 
eighty cents. 



12 

All kinds of inquiries are received daily as to their 
habits, how to incubate, raise, house, feed and care for 
them. As there seems to be very little published about 
the work and handling of the Indian Runner Ducks and 
to meet all these answers and inquiries, in pure self de- 
fense and through earnest persuasion of my many friends, 
I shall, to the best of my ability, endeavor to explain in 
detail my experience in handling this strain of ducks. 
What I give you in this little book is not hear-say or 
what others say about them, but my real experience and 
success, for fancy, utility and eggs, and as a fine table 
dish. 

I shall confine myself almost entirely to an exposi- 
tion of the artificial methods. However, they can be 
reared just as well with broody hens in a small way, only 
the reason I confine myself to artificial rearing is a shorter 
road to success. The majority of people say: "Can 
they be raised on city lots ? ' ' Yes. They can be raised 
anywhere that you can raise chickens. They will lay 
and do well with a bucket or fountain of water before 
them to drink. It is not at all necessary for them to 
have a nice pond to do well. However, if you have a 
pond of water they will enjoy it very much and their 
plumage will be nice and clean at all times, whereas with 
a fountain their appearance is more dirty looking. If 
properly fed and housed, the result is the same as with 
a pond. The pond is always an extra expense on the. 
operator. However, there are failures with almost any 
business, and the one who plunges headlong into it with- 
out seeing ahead, finds himself short on the ledger. ac- 
count when it is too late to recover. Go slow in the 
beginning, whether you start with hen or incubator. 
When vou have them hatched do not become reckless 
and think they will take care of themselves. Give them 



'-' I ■ "■ ■ ■ i j ■ ■ , i 11 - ' p * i n ■ ■■ i ' I ■ ■■ ■ ■» h q 

their proper care from start to finish, as you never saw a 
finer sight than a lot of 25 or 50 Indian Runner duck- 
lings running from feed to fountain and fountain to feed 
until their meal is finished. They are all ready for a 
good rest in the shade or sun as the season of the year 
may be. 

I will state right here that if you are not in favor of 
working early and late sometimes and afraid of getting 
your fingers soiled, you had better not start in the poul- 
try business. While the work is not so hard, yet there 
is always something to look after. However, if you in- 
tend to do your part and disappointments come, it v/ill 
soon tell of what kind of material you are made of. Then 
is the time to make up your mind that you will not make 
the same mistake the second time, and I am sure when 
you once have confidence in yourself that you can avoid 
these errors and you will soon take a fancy to the duck 
business. It may not pay you at the start but if you 
stick to it, your success will be sure. 



14 

Starting the Incubator 

First, buy some good incubator. Do not buy a 
Cheap-John machine, but a good make. Select clean, 
even sized Indian Runner Duck eggs, fill your machine 
and then leave the eggs in the incubator. Do not touch 
them for two and one-half days. Then take them out 
and turn eggs from this time to the eighteenth day for 
chicks and twenty-six for ducks. Turn the eggs twice 
daily when your machine is running at 102 deg. , first two 
weeks, and 103 the remaining time. At these points you 
should keep your incubator, if it is a hot air machine ; 
cooling is essential. By the sixth or seventh day the 
testing should be done, also at the 14th day the second 
testing and a good cooling, say one-half hour, depend- 
ing on the season of the year. The best care should be 
taken the first week in handling your eggs, as your whole 
hatch depends on how many eggs are carried in fertility 
the third and fifth day; if you examine a clear white egg 
at this time by holding it before a strong light or tester, 
the blood veins will show. The veins resemble a spider's 
web. These veins are the forming of a chick or duck- 
ling, and if shaken or jarred too hard will break the webs 
and your egg will not hatch. At the seventh or eighth 
day you will see real blood rings circled and the egg is 
no good. As stated before, care must be taken the first 
week, so as to maintain the highest percentage of fertil- 
ity. The second week they need more cooling, third 
week longer; last week longer, cooling up to the 26th 
day for ducklings. Do not open incubator until hatch 
is over, and that should be on the 28th day for duck- 
lings. At this time you can leave air into incubator, or 
open door part way so as to harden yeur ducklings-. 



Transfer Ducklings 

Transfer ducklings to hens or brooder. Your suc- 
cess depends on your first week's handling of these 
ducks, as their lives are very tender and great care must 
be maintained. We do not claim that our rule is the 
only way to handle them, but we do claim that if our rule 
is carried out your death rate will be very small. How- 
ever, good judgment must always be the foresight as to 
weather conditions. 




Indian Runner Prize Winning Drake. 



16 




17 

■MMMWM J "' i ' — l" i "" i — — — ii ' ' " " '■' ' i ii i ii i n 



A flock of Indian Runner Ducks at 13 weeks old. A 
few special matings in fawn and white. 



18„_ 

- ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ — ■ 1 — — - - "■ ■ — -■■■ - ■— .-i ' ■•— 

How to^Make a Brooder 

Take a box six inches high and two feet long, 'sixteen 
inches wide. Remove top; also take off front of box. 
This front strip that you take off, rip into one slat two 
and one-half inches wide and another one inch wide. 
The two and one-half inch strip nail to front of box lower 
end, and the one inch strip at top. That will leave an 
opening for the ducklings to pass in and out of_ three 
inches. This brooder is large enough for 35 to 50 ducks 
two weeks old. The top of this, saw into one inch 
square strips and nail together the size of your brooder. 
Then tack on in a loose way, the size of your frame, 
cheese cloth. This will form a cover for the brooder, 
and can be removed to clean out. Your ducks must now 
be taught to go in and out Put meadow hay or clover 
chaff on bottom, and ducks as aj rule, will soon take 
notice. The operator can teach them their place in a 
few days. 




'•sSjiii.', v 



19 

Care and Feed 

Transfer ducks to your brooder. Give water first 
day, say four or five times, but no feed until the last time 
in the evening. Their water must be put into a fountain 
so that the ducklings do not get wet all over. Do not 
allow them to soak up in water; just give them enough 
to drink. Then lay an empty burlap bag before them 
and put their feed on bag. I will give you two forms for 
first week. Use a good mixed chick feed, principally 
half corn and wheat with Hen-E-Ta ; and grit the size of 
granulated sugar. We have a standard make that sells 
for $2. 75 per ioo pounds. This feed is used for seven 
days. The first week we feed four times a day, giving 
them a very small quantity thrown on the burlap bag. 
The first few days you must watch your ducklings and 
see that the weaker ones get their share of feed. . Posi- 
tively feed nothing else. But your ducks must be on a 
grass plot; if you have no grass plot, feed salad cut very 
fine after first week. Feed only what they will take in a 
short time, then remove all greens and feed. Keep your 
flock hungry and lively until the seventh day, when you 
can branch off on a short meal at noon of a mess mixture 
with fine grit. 



20 



4 parts bran 

i 

i 



oat meal 

corn 

middlings 

beefscraps 

green clover (cut fina) 



Feed this for three or three and one-half weeks and 
change the mixture to form No. three. 

3 parts bran 

i " corn meal 

i ' ' best middlings 

i to '$¥2 parts beefscraps 

V% green food (all they will eat clean at once ) 
grit 
By eight or ten weeks of careful feeding, your ducks 
should be full feathered and are now readv to turn to the 
fattening pen. Turn all you want to sell for market into 
this pen, however, don't fatten unless you can sell as 
you have them ready, as it only takes one ot two weeks 
to fatten as some will take on fat much quicker than oth- 
ers. Kill best birds first. Fill up your fattening pen as 
you take out. The remaining young breeders intended 
for breeding, keep feeding with feed No. two. How- 
ever, catch a duck and examine, if too fat cut down corn 
meal and feed more bran. About November ist, as to 
age of your ducks, or when six months old, you can 
change feed for laying. 



21 

What to Feed Ducks for Laying 

Laying ducks are fed twice a day with form No. 
four as follows: 

i part bran 

V2 ' ' sugar feed 

i ' ' corn meal 

i ' ' best white middlings 

V£ " beefscrap (good) 

y% ' ' green alfalfa meal 

I " fine cut clover 
The beefscraps and cut clover should be soaked in 
water from one meal to the other. When ready to feed 
add bran, corn meal and middlings. Never overfeed 
your layers. Gauge yourself in this way : Should your 
ducks have some feed left over from one meal skip one 
feed or feed a smaller quantity at one time. When once 
you get your ducks laying, never change your feed on 
your layers. However, you must gauge yourself as to 
season of year. Keep yourlayers fat enough to lay but 
not too fat. Catch one by the neck now and then and 
examine it. Your egg yield will all depend on the ope- 
rator who feeds them. One person should feed at all 
times so as to never get their bill of fare changed, how- 
ever, if you have potatoes, beets, cabbage, or any green 
food, you can give it in small quantities for relish in the 
morning. The proper time to feed these layers is at 
noon. Give them just^enough feed|to consume at once 
and look for more.|||In the evening|give|them*all they 
can eat and have^some to nibble at during the night. 
Have a bucket of water or trough all the time to drink. 
The operator should be cautious at certain seasons of the 
year. When freezing, do not feed more than just what 
they will eat up clean. When very warm, the mess will 



Z2_ 

soon sour. Either one, frozen or sour feed, will sour 
their stomachs and cause trouble. It is all up to the op- 
erator, as there are no hardier ducks living than the In- 
dian Runners, and none that will respond in their egg 
yield better than will the Runner. Get busy, study 
their nature, and you will find pleasure and profit in 
raising these ducks and a good bank account. 

Fattening Feed 

Form No. Five. 
2 parts bran 
4 ' ' corn meal 
i ' ' middlings 



l 



2 



beefscraps 



Give them very little green food, if any, as all de- 
pends on their appetite. 



23 

Housing Ducks 

These ducks require no expensive buildings. It is 
all according to what the operator can afford to build. 
The building that has a good floor above ground with 
hay or straw on it, three sides closed, front open, slant 
roof, is all that is required. As to the yard, a two feet 
high wire netting, and two inches mesh, is all that is re- 
quired to keep them within their bounds. A building 1 2 
feet wide and 20 feet long is large enough for 50 ducks. 
The front opening of the building should face to the 
south. Up to this time we have never found any disease 
among the Indian Runner ducks. I would insist on 
every poultry raiser to try a pen of Runners, and see 
how soon they will find a good credit account with their 
Runners at less work than with hens. 



24 




2^ 

►flit .« i 



This photo shows three pens of young Runners at age 
weeks, 6 weeks and 8 weeks old. Also Mr. Yoder, Prop. 



26 

To Obtain Best Results 

To obtain the best result in egg yield of our Run- 
ners they must be yarded or housed at night until the 
next morning, eight or nine o'clock. Then give them a 
free range in grass and shade. At noon give them a small 
meal or what they will eat up clean at once. Do not 
overfeed at noon, but in the evening induce them to take 
all you can, give them enough and have some left to 
nibble at during the night when closed up. You should 
have them crammed full of feed and ready for a good 
night's rest, ready in the early morning to drop all their 
eggs by nine o'clock. Then you will find them as lively 
as crickets, all ready for the pen to open, and out they 
go for their morning free range; and you will find them 
busy until noon when they will all come back to the 
house for a good rest and noon meal. After opening the 
house in the morning, the operator can gather all eggs, 
clean up the house and give fresh water. He should not 
go to the duck house until 8 or 9 o'clock, as it will 
disturb them in laying. Every precaution should be 
taken to exercise his daily work and watch his flock of 
Runners. There are very few drones among the Run- 
ners if handled carefully. I venture to say there is no 
hen or duck in these progressive days that is so easily 
controlled to produce the number of eggs with the same 
amount of feed and labor, and a good bank account is in 
vour favor. 



; 27 

Habits and Origin of Runners 

This family of waterfowls is credited with originating 
in India and is adapted to either cold zero weather or a 
very hot and dry summer. It is thought they derived 
the name Runner, from their habit of running along the 
ground like a Plover, which is a very handsome and 
stylish bird, of erect carriage. It was introduced into 
England over fifty years ago, and at \\ nfte Haven, where 
it soon established a reputation as the most prolific of egg 
makers and layers. It is only a few years, however, 
since its introduction into this country. Here too it sets 
the pace in egg production. In England it is credited 
with individual records of 225 to 250 eggs per annum; 
in America with a record of 200 to 225, in flocks of ten, 
and 190 eggs in flocks of 100. I myself, a breeder of 
Runners for six years, heretofore bred them only for 
pleasure, but find them to be profitable, and intend 
breeding them hereafter in large flocks for their egg 
yield. I myself have had an average of 180 eggs per 
annum, and I am convinced the time is not far distant 
when I can report a much larger record. The secret lies 
in what to feed, when, and how much, and the Runner 
cannot help but lay large, white and green shelled eggs, 
of a most delicious flavor. Many prefer them to hens' 
eggs. For use in baking they are especially highly es- 
teemed, being superior to hens' eggs. Six years ago I 
read an article on the Runner, wherein the writer stated 
that the time was not far distant when the Runner would 
outlav any breed of hens. However, I decided to try 
them. I bought a lot of eggs from a breeder in Wash- 
ington, about 2400 miles distant from my place of busi- 
ness. I was in the general merchandise business then 
and I got them merely as a side line for pleasure and 



28 

pastime. I received the eggs all O. K. , set them under 
the hens and in 28 days I was surprised to find a lot of 
Runners hatched. I managed to raise nearly all. Allow 
me to tell you they were a live set of youngsters and all 
who saw them took a fancy to them. I sold all the eggs 
for hatching but could get only about 15 cents per dozen 
market price. By this time I had lots of eggs and no 
sale, so I concluded I would try a large poultry house in 
Philadelphia, on Market streets. I went there in person 
to see the buyer and in my mind I thought I had a won- 
derful offer to present to them. However, to the con- 
trary, as soon as I mentioned Indian Runner ducks he 
put up his hands and said, ' ' They are positively N. G. 
(no good). Their eggs don't sell for more than market 
price." You can judge how I felt on the situation, with 
my money invested and a lot of eggs on hand. The 
ducks just kept on shelling out the eggs and I sold them 
all at market price and a few settings for hatching. At 
the end of the season I found my Runners much ahead 
of my hens in egg production. I concluded to try a dif- 
ferent method of selling. I ventured into advertising in 
poultry papers with a classified adv. However, sales 
were very few the first year. The second year sales in- 
creased and the third year was also better. The fourth 
year of advertising I sold all the eggs but a few and the 
fifth year I was unable to fill all orders. I turned away 
all orders amounting over 100 eggs. Among the orders 
turned down were three orders of 1000 eggs each. At 
this writing I am making provision to build duck build- 
ings for my Runners to keep a flock large enough to fill 
all egg orders ranging from one setting to 1000 or more 
for hatching. A single swallow does not make a sum- 
mer, nor does an Indian Runner make a fortune in a 
year, but the poultryman who sticks to the breed year 



29 

after year, will find that with proper care they will well 
repay him and he will not be disappointed in breeding 
this fowl. The Runner has come to stay, and I venture 
to say that the time is not far distant when they will stand 
alone at the top of the ladder, where the Leghorns stood 
eight and ten years ago. Where are they today? They 
are raised by millions for their large egg yield. The In- 
dian Runner in a few years, will far exceed the egg yield 
of the Leghorn hen. The Indian Runner is the second 
Leghorn. The strain is improved far above the Leg- 
horns as an egg producer. As a fall and winter layer 
they are especially valuable when once started to lay 
about November 15th or December 1st, and the opera- 
tor is careful in their feed, houses them properly, as cold 
to their feet is the same as a frozen comb to a hen. Have 
beding of straw or hay so that they can rest at will, and 
at other times can play and splash in snow or water, 
which they enjoy very much. Higher prices in winter 
for their eggs is another credit to their account. The 
eggs average about six to six and one-half to the pound. 
Early hatched birds, with proper care, will start laying 
at five to six months and will lay a month and then take 
a rest; and now is the time to take good care. If you 
get them too fat, you will have trouble. When you have 
once started with your bill of fare, do not change the 
feed, only feed less or more, whichever it may be Catch 
a duck and examine it. " I know of no other breed that 
can be controlled by the operator as can the Indian Run- 
ner Duck. A Runner is good for laying for five or six 
years; other ducks play out in two years. Hens also 
play out in this time. 

The Runner is very healthy and vigorous, not sub- 
ject to lice, roup and all the ailments that hens are sub- 
ject to. Their color is fawn and white. They are very 



30 

erect and keep out of your way but just as tame. As 
meat producers, especially for home market or small 
family trade, hotels, restaurants, etc. , they cannot be 
excelled, as the flesh under one year old has no equal in 
delicacy. It is of a deep yellow, much firmer in texture 
than that of a Pekin,Jwith deep breast. The carcass 
will dress at about four to four and one-half ^or^five 
pounds, and while not so fat as the Pekin, it is fat enough 
to cook in its own fat. The Indian Runner does not find 
swimming water essential to a successful life, however, 
they do enjoy a pond of water, and their plumage looks 
much better. Their drinking vessels should be three 
inches deep at least and must have all the drinking water 
they need. 

The standard weight of a Runner drake is four and 
one-half 'pounds and a duck four pounds. Their plum- 
age is dark and light fawn and white. Remember when 
you raise the Indian Runner duck for killing as broilers, 
much is gained by picking these ducks as their feathers 
are almost as easy to pick as a hen's, when scalded with 
hot water in a bucket or tank, when picked dry these 
feathers command a good price. There is always a ready 
sale for nice, clean feathers. 



31 

Experience and Advice 

While we find much pleasure in raising these ducks 
and especially when young, however, do not think that 
raising ducks is only making money and no work. Your 
work is never finished until you get out of the business. 
The work, however, is of such a nature that you can al- 
ways find something to do. Feeding should always be 
done at a regular hour for each feed and drinking water, 
cleaning of houses, etc. , should be done when the ducks 
are out of their houses. Never dig a post hole in the 
yard where your ducklings are unless you fill it at once 
or cover it; if you don't do it, you will find all your 
ducklings piled in the post hole, as it seems they enjoy 
something like that. All these little trifles occur now 
and then, and this is what gives the blues. However, if 
you are afraid of work and getting your hands dirty and 
the blues sometimes, you had better not start. How- 
ever, anyone in fair health can manage a nice flock of 
Runners and make a good living with a good sized bank 
account. However, this depends on the size of flock you 
handle. 



32 




33 



Residence of proprietor of Indian Runner Duck Yard, 
Mr. and Mrs. Yoder and their pet horse. 



34 




35 



Model Poultry, Hare and Duck House, combined under 
one roof. Two stories high. Upper story is used for 
Yoder's Black and White Minorcas; lower floor is for our 
famous layers of Indian Runner Ducks. Another above the 
ducks, elevated 3 feet, is our Rufus Red Belgian Hares. 
This house when full has a capacity of 400 to 500 hens; 
300 to 400 hundred ducks and 200 to 300 hares, with feed- 
ing room and water. All feeding is done inside of the 
building under one roof. The two open sheds are for duck 
feeding. The bunding is 64 ft. long, 16 ft. wide, 14 ft. high 
in front and 12 ft. h^gh in rear, covered with rubber roof- 
ing. Mr. Yoder, proprietor of Triangle Poultry Farm is 
standing in front of building. 



_36 

In=Breeding 

I have always advocated the selection of the largest 
and best shaped birds for breeding. However, this holds 
good to color also. Many times I am asked why my 
birds run so large. The above method gives me the 
birds I am looking for. However, this would not hold 
good in in-breeding were I only to run one drake and a 
few ducks, but breeding from my pens, by selecting the 
best, I produced the strain I now have. I am sure that 
many persons who from a mistaken idea have introduced 
new blood, have reduced both the size and quality of 
their stock. However, do not breed from one small pen 
only to gain size and quality. If you breed longer than 
one season from your first pen, you will in-breed very 
fast, and your size and quality is soon destroyed, but the 
one who keeps different yards and always selects the best 
birds from different yards, can breed many years with 
impunity because the intermingling of blood is exactly 
inverse ratio. 



_ __. 37 

Mating Your Pens 

In mating, as stated before, one must select one old 
dra^e from pen No. i, second old drake from pen No. 2, 
third old drake from pen No. 3, and fourth old 
drake from pen No. 4. This gives 3 ou a pen of four old 
drakes. Then select six very best young ducks from 
pen No. 4, six from No. 3, six from No. 2 and six from 
No. 1 ; put No. 1 drake to six young ducks in pen No. 4 
in regular order. This pen contains four old drakes and 
24 young ducks, making a pen of 28 head. In a pen of 
this size you will find that the second 3 ear your e Jgs of 
this pen will run better in fertility and bring strongest 
ducklings. It all depends as to the size of the pen and 
the number of years you can breed from this pen but for 
best results one should not breed longer than two y ears 
and then mate another in the regular order outlined. 
However, if your room is limited for breeding pens you 
may breed a few years more and still maintain larger and 
better birds than by introducing new blood and destroy- 
ing the good qualities you have. You can hold quality 
and size better by sending to same breeder where you 
received your parent stock. By explaining to him just 
what you need, whether you need an old drake or duck 
as the case of mating pen may be, he should know by 
the information the buyer gives, just what his customer 
needs for best results. 



38 

Another Form of Mating 

Select four old drakes in regular order as first mating 
pen given. Then select two or three old ducks in regu- 
lar order given. Then select three or four very best 
> oun^ ducks, selected from first, second, third and 
fourth pens and mate all together, making 28 head in 
the pen. You can just reverse the case and head this 
pen by young drakes. However, the young drakes 
should be at least ten months old and twelve months is 
still better, as they must be very active for good results. 
One must be very careful in ira.ing. This last pen can 
easily be confused in the selection of your breeders. 

Crossing Breeds 

We know by crossing one breed with another we 
get our different varieties of breeds. However, I would 
caution the beginner or the one who does not understand 
to work out all details to better not try it as it is at your 
expense and many a time the loss of a very valuable 
flock. 



39 ' 

First-Class Breeding Stock. 

Select the very best or procure from some reli< 
breeder your foundation stock. Better buy only §■ 
few good birds than to buy a' lot of late hatched 
scrubs with same amount of money. However, t&3 
late birds may do all right for laying eggs, but fo£ 
breeding they are a disappointment and lous of tittfeg 
and money. When I say good stock,' I mean the bes*> 
utility stock you can afford. Don't buy fancy stock 
and pay big prices for exhibition stock unless yob* 
intend to use them for that purpose, as the bes& 
utility stock will produce just what you need a&d3 
may capture a few prize winners at the same tinife. 
In this way you will work out good strains of Indian 
Runner Ducks that will command good prices and A 
ready sale if properly advertised. 



Notice : Questions are cheerfully answe 
book if a 2c. stamp is enclosed for reply. 



«**• f**- t ~ 




UP 1 'i fin -■'-. 



-:"%ii^-^ 3 ±L«; 



40 




x & JMMBBI 



41 



Breeding House No. 2. 

Photo shows 60 Famous Indian Runner Ducks with 
some extra fine markings. Large, vigorous birds, May 
hatched. 



42 

MARKINGS OF COLOR. 

My Views on the Marking of Indian Runner Ducks. 

With all the printed matter which is now circu- 
lated through our journals about their markings, you 
will remember stated in. another chapter, and I will 
uphold it as an American breeder, and will give my 
reason for it, that dark and light fawn or ginger 
fawn and white is the color. Why do I uphold it? 
Because it is the standard of to-day. The committee 
that got out our present Standard of Markings has 
done fine work. Foreign laws are different from 
American laws. As an American citizen I must 
abide with our American laws. The same is true 
with our American Standard of Perfection, and I 
think the committee has done just right in giving us 
ginger fawn and white. We know there are many 
breeders who think differently, but there never will 
be a committee than can please everybody. We know 
that the English breeder says the true markings are 
a fawn laced or penciled and white color, and if you 
import you will get that color, because they claim that 
in their Standard of Perfection. They have a right 
to claim it, but they have no right to come over on 
our American soil and say we must have the same 
markings. They say, why not have the same stand- 
ard? I might just as well say. why not have the 
same laws as England? As soon as the committee on 
that work sees fit to change it with the majority of 
breeders, I am sure they will do it. The breeders 
of laced marking claim that breed is more true in 
carnage, form and color, and all white eggs, more 
hardy birds, etc. As a breeder for six years, I find 



43 

no difference whatever. I have been working on 
laced colors to get all white eggs and to my surprise 
I got green and white eggs at certain times. How 
this occurred I am unable to solve. However, for 
my part I would prefer all white eggs, and up to this 
time I know of no breeder who can guarantee every 
egg white. If there is such a breed I would like to 
have them. However, to whoever may read this book 
I will say, take it for granted that the color of eggs 
is only shell deep and as far as quality goes there is 
positively no difference. They all have the same 
flavor. 

The operator can change the flavor in eggs by feed- 
ing. In the ginger fawn and white duck I find no 
difference in their daily life. They are just as hardy 
and lay just as many eggs. It is all in the feed, how 
and when, and what you feed, and we hope our 
American Standard is upheld by our true, honest, 
poultry judges. Up to this time the Indian Runner 
Duck was not sought after, but the time is not far 
distant when our poultry journals will have more to 
print. Nor is the time far distant when we shall 
have a wonderful change in our large poultry plants 
for eggs. Why? Because the Runner will produce 
more eggs at less cost than a hen, is healthier, its 
laying qualities are good up to five and six years; 
however, the older they get the lighter their plumage 
becomes. 

However we are breeding both strains, American 
Standard, also English Standard. We must to fill our 
orders; we could not get along without breeding both 
strains, American and English Standards. 

We hope we have made this chapter clear so our 



44 










45 



This photo shows a group of Y Oder's Famous Indian 
Runner Prize Winners. May hatched, large, vigorous birds. 



46 

readers will not become confused in starting with 
the Indian Runner Ducks. We hope they will soon 
reach the mark they deserve. The Runner is a non- 
setter. Some get broody during July and August, 
but by penning them up one day they are generally 
broke up. Take them the first day they get broody 
and break them up at once. This will save you 
trouble and will start them to laying at once. 




.^— iw • C-»U>l%fr<*i,<i _ 



47 

Feeding Formulas for Ducks. 
FORMULA No. 1. 

First Week. 

A well balanced chick feed of cracked corn, cracked 
wheat with Hen-E-Ta grit. 

Feed four times daily. Little at a time, as much 
as they will eat up clean at once. Then branch off 
gradually on formula No. 2. 

FORMULA No. 2. 

Mess. 

4 parts good bran. 
1 part rolled oats. 
1 part corn meal. 

1 part middlings. 

y 2 to 1 part beef scraps. 

2 parts young green clover cut fine. 

Feed this three to three and one-half weeks. Not 
too wet — a heavy mush form. 

FORMULA No. 3. 

Growing Stock. 

3 parts bran. 

1 part corn meal. 
1 part best white middlings. 
1 to 2Y2 parts beef scraps. 

1-3 part green food (corn leaves, green rye, green 
clover or whatever you have at the time. Cut fine). 
Feed three times daily. 



48 

FORMULA No. 4. 

Feed for Laying Ducks. 

1 part bran. 

y 2 part sugar feed (Buffalo). 

1 part corn meal. 

1 part best white middlings. 

y% part beef scraps. 

%. part green alfafa meal. 

1 part fine cut clover. 

Soak alfafa, beef scrap and clover from one meal 
to another. 

Feed three times daily. 

Fattening Formula. 

No. 5. 

2 parts bran. 

4 parts corn meal. 

1 part white middlings. 

Yz part beef scraps. 

Very little green, if any. All depends on appetite. 

One week to ten days are required to fatten. 

All these feeding formulas should be well mixed 
in such quantities as to have a supply on hand at 
least two to three weeks. A box one foot square and 
five feet long, ends slanting, with slats on inside, 
hung on center, will mix feed by turning over. 



49 

DONTS. 

1. Don't spend all you money to buy eggs or 
breeders. Save enough for feed and buildings. 

2. Don't buy exhibition birds, but the best utility 
stock you can afford. 

3. Don't get the "blues" if your stock will not 
respond by an egg yield in two weeks, or four weeks. 

4. Don't let young ducks get wet on their backs 
under four weeks, but give them all the water they 
can drink. 

5. Don't overfeed at any time. 

6. Don't feed any kind of formula offered and 
think your ducks should do well. 

7. Don't feed whole grain at all times. You can 
keep your ducks alive, but you get a few eggs only. 
A little some times as a relish is good for them. 

8. Don't leave the dogs or children chase your 
ducks around their yards. 

9. Don't frighten your Runner, as her disposition 
is wild, but she can be made to be just as tame. 

10. Don't set your duck eggs under a lousy hen. 

11. Don't fail to give them all the drinking water 
they need in their pen. 

12. Don't change your feed on laying ducks if 
they lay well a whole season. 

13. Don't forget the grit hopper. They need it. 

14. Don't mate more than six ducks to one drake. 

15. Don't leave your ducks range over your whole 
farm. 

16. Don't forget to handle your ducks by the neck 
when you are handling themr- 

17. Don't feed your cull ducks over winter, It 
doesn't pay. 



50 

18. Don't leave your ducks roam all night if you 
want lots of eggs. Confine your ducks to your lay- 
ing house until 9 o'clock in the morning. 

19. Don't keep your duck eggs four to six weeks 
and think they will hatch well. Set them fresh for 
best results. 

20. Don't give more than eleven eggs to one set- 
ting hen. If you do, it is your loss. 

21. Don't think that you can't succeed with ducks; 
you can. Try it and be convinced. 

22. Don't forget that eggs kept in a room with 
temperature from 75 to 85 degrees spoils an tgg in 
three to four clays. 

23. Don't leave the drakes kill your ducks during 
hot July days. \\ 'hen the egg season is past, separate 
sexes in separate pens. 

24. Don't fail to give your ducks a trough of water 
four or five inches deep when five or six weeks old. 

25. Don't forget— 25 ducklings in one pen for best 
results. 

26. Don't fail to use a little black pepper for sea- 
soning their mess. Especially if thev have diarrhea. 
Cayenne pepper should be mixed with the black. 

27. Don't forget that sprouted oats are the best 
greens you can give your breeding ducks and young. 



Telling Different Sex. 

The drakes can be told when seven or eight weeks 
old by the curl in their tail. Also larger head and 
has more straight carriage. 

The duck as a rule is smaller and by the sound of 
the noise she makes one can easily discern her sex. 

Marketing. 

These ducks for roasting have no equal. They can 
be made ready for marketing in six to eight weeks, 
and by hatching your young so that a hatch comes 
off every week you have eight pens. Every week your 
ducks are changed from pen No. 1 to pen No. 2, and 
pen No. 2 to pen No. 3, and so on in their regular 
order, which saves labor and at the same time you 
have every pen filled. Killing and dressing is much 
easier with Indian Runner Ducks than with any other 
strain. They pick almost like a hen. When scalded 
there is no difference. As a rule they dress very 
nicely and command good prices. There is always a 
ready sale for them. Great care should be taken in 
dressing your broilers and ducks. Have them look 
nice and clean. You should have a tub of cold water 
ready to put all ducks into as soon as picked. This 
will give them a nice color. It all depends on how 
well your ducks look when dressed to command the 
highest market price. All feathers should be saved 
and kept clean, as they will pay for picking and there 
is always a ready sale for them. 



^ 52 , 

Care of Ducklings, 

The best care of ducklings should be taken. We 
told you how to make a brooder. Transfer your duck- 
lings from incubator to your brooder. Leave them 
in this brooder three weeks and then transfer them 
to a larger run and colony brooder, made 3 feet wide 
and 5 feet deep, floor raised from ground 6 inches, 
front 2 l / 2 feet high, back 18 inches high, sides and 
back boarded solid, front open 2 feet, with mice net- 
ting over to pen ducklings up during night, to keep 
out dogs, skunks, etc. 

Have your ducklings clean. Give them straw on 
floor. From five to eight weeks your ducklings will 
be a lively set and should have a grass run. The 
ground around your feeding troughs will soon get 
muddy. Change places as your ducklings will soori 
get crusty, which will stop them from growing; 
Ducklings six to eight week old should take a good 
bath after their meal. They should have a trough 
of water four or five inches deep to take their bath 
after meal. Have a regular time for meals, three 
times daily, and have each to contain about twenty- 
five to thrity ducklings for best results. However, 
you can have fifty or sixty to a pen. But you will 
find that the smaller ones will soon be trampled 
over and will die. You will always find different 
sizes in a pen of fifty. You had better cull out the 
.smaller ones to save the death rate. At the age of 
six and seven weeks there is a mightv scramble over 
one another and this can only be avoided by making 
your pens smaller in number. 



S3 



Laying Record for 1909. 

In 1909 I had a pen of sixteen layers of Runners. 
Their average was 180 eggs each, The ducks were 
four and five years old. In 1910 I had a pen of thirty 
layers. Their age was four, five and six years. Note 
the age of these ducks and their record. These ducks 
Will lay more iggs first atld second year, but my 
testing record is of old ducks, which everybody claims 
of other strains of ducks &r€ not worth their feed 
fdr keeping a"s I&yers Over the second year. Not sd 
with tlii Rtihrief, They are good for six and Seven 
years for iayirs, Please note amount of eggs laid 
iafch mdnth by thirty layers five and nm years old. 

£ggs% 
February 13, 1910, amount laid for month.... 51 

March, amount laid for month 728 

April, amount laid for month 801 

May, amount laid for month 787 

June, amount laid for month 682 

July, amount laid for month 621 

August, amount laid for month 543 

Total 4 > 213 

September 1, 1910. At this writing my ducks are 
laying. Sixteen and seventeen ducks are laying every 
day and at the same time are starting to moult, and 
we expect to keep them laying just as long as we can, 
regardless of the moult. 

Prices of Breeders and Eggs. 
Indian Runner Ducks from my best pen containing 
my prize winners. 



54 



Pen No. 1 11 

30 



eggs $2.50 
eggs 5.00 



50 eggs 8.00 



Pen No. 2 11 

30 



Single Drake (utility) 
Single Duck (utility) 



eggs $1.25 

eggs 2.50 

50 eggs 3.50 

100 eggs 6.00 

1.000 eggs 55.00 

.SI. 50 $3.00 

. 1.50 3.00 



Exhibition birds 5.00 10.00 $15.00 

Eggs packed and birds crated F. O. B. our shipping 
station. Cash with order. (Post office money order.) 




■z^.—^..- ■ »~. w-ta 



55 

S. C. Black Minorcas. 




The S. C. Black Minorcas are to-day too well 
known to need any lengthy description. Minorcas 
are the largest of the Mediterranean Class and their 
large size gives them the advantage over other non- 
setting breeds. The modern bird is large in outline, 
well bodied, stands well on its legs, broad chested and 
has a long broad back. The Standard weight for S. 
C. Minorcas is nine pounds for cock, seven and one- 
half pounds for cockerel, seven and one-half pounds 
for hen and six and one-half pounds for pullet. For 
weight and number and size of eggs no one can deny 
that they are ahead of all other breeds. 

Eggs 15 for $1.50, 30 for $2.50, 100 for $7.00. 



56 

R, C. Black Minorcas. 







Rose Comb Black Minorcas are similar to Single 
Comb Black Minorcas. Their Standard weight is 
cock eight pounds, cockerel six and one-half pounds, 
hen six and one-half pounds and pullet five and one- 
half pounds. Their eggs run very large and white. 

R. C. Black Minorcas eggs 15 for $2.00, 30 for 
$3.50, 50 for $5.00. 

Single utility birds $2.00 to $5.00. 

Exhibition birds $5.00 to $15.00. 

Notice: Questions are cheerfully answered from 
this book if a 2c. stamp is enclosed. 



57 

S. C. White Minorcas. 

S. C. White Minorcas have not been treated justly. 
They deserve -more' credit than they get because we 
find them to.be^ a much better bird than the Black, 
lay more eggs and larger ones. Their Standard weight 
is the same as trie R. C. Black. All we ask is give 
them a trial. 

S. C. White .Minorca eggs, 15 eggs $2.00, 30 eggs 
$3.50, 50 eggs $6.00. 

Single utility birds $2.00 to $5.00. 

Exhibition birds $5.00 to $15.00. 



58 

S. C. Rhode Island Reds. 




Single Comb Rhode Island Reds are too well known 
as to their good qualities as layers and easy to raise 
large, vigorous and healthy birds. 

Their Standard weight for cock is eight and one-half 
pounds, cockerel seven and one-half pounds, hen six 
and one-half pounds and pullet five pounds. We have 
a fine pen mated for good results. The cockerel is 
a fine, vigorous bird, with a good red color and un- 
dercolor fine. Hens and pullets are a shade lighter 
in color. This pen will bring you good results. 

15 eggs $2.00, 30 eggs $3.50. 50 eggs $6.00. 

Single utility birds $2.00 to $5.00. 

Single exhibition birds $5.00 to $15.00. 



59 

BELGIAN HARES 




Pedigreed Belgian Hares differ from all other hares 
and rabbits. Their ears are longer, eyes larger and 
more prominent. A full grown Belgian Hare weighs 
from -eight to twelve pounds. Their meat is .white^ 
juicy and tender^.breed very, young,, producing their 
young every, ,,six - or eight weeks and from four to 
eight at a time. They require very little attention. 
Clover hay and oats are their principal foods. They, 
should have salt once a week. Keep their hutches 
clean and dry. We breed the Rufus Red variety, as 
they are the most popular. Our does and bucks for 
breeding are separate blood and insure strong, healthy 
stock. We have stock for sale at all ages. You will 
find pedigreed breeds in our rabbitry. Among them 
may be found such blood as buck and does, Fred sired 
by Red Mile, sired by Hamilton Chief, also by a Crys- 
tal Palace winner. $25.00 Buck Fred by Buckeye, 
Nell and Queen Bess, also a Crystal Palace winner. 
Doe Luch sired by Lord Wallace and Hamilton Chief, 



60 



etc. Doe Lucy by Queen Bess and Lady Gold Dust, 
etc. 

Prices. 

2 months old, per pair. $1.50 

3 months old, per pair. . . . 2.00 

4 months old, per pair 2.50 

6 months old, per pair 4.00 

We will guarantee our own careful selection. 
Value received for your money. 

Terms. 

Remittances must accompany all orders by regis- 
tered letter or post office money order. Address all 
remittances to Levi D. Yoder, Dublin, Pa. We can- 
not ship stock C. O. D. Be sure your name, post 
office, express company, county and state is plainly 
written. We ship stock in as light coops and crates 
as possible so as to save express charges for our cus- 
tomers. Goods are shipped F. O. B. at our shipping 
station. Express must be paid by purchaser. 

Please remember that the best mated pen in the 
world will not produce all prize winners. 

Reference: First National Bank, Perkasie, Pa., as 
to my standing. HoWever, always enclose 2c. stamp 
when writing for a reply. 



~ 61 

Buildings. 

Buildings or houses for ducks all depend on how 
much you want to invest or can afford. To build a 
proper house for the Indian Runner Duck, it does 
not require a very expensive house. However, it 
does depend on the operator to have it convenient to 
feed. Also have a trough of water. Ducks should be 
kept clean. Have for them bedding of meading hay 
or straw. Your house should be well ventilated and 
in freezing weather the house should be closed so that 
the eggs will not freeze. A house twelve feet wide 
and twenty feet long, slanting roof one way, back of 
house four feet high, front seven feet high, six feet 
long is a good size. Two spaces should be left open 
in the front with a piece of canvas tacked over it so 
as to close it when it rains or snows. On clear days 
open this house. This house will be large enough for 
fifty to seventy-five layers. Another convenient house 
is thirty feet wide and the length as long as you may 
desire, 100 or 500 feet. Have eave sides four feet 
high, roof slanting both ways and gable end should 
be eight feet high. This gives the operator a board- 
walk through the center of building and should be 
elevated eighteen inches. 

This will give all the floor space to your ducks or 
you can make pens smaller and make path for operat- 
or even with floor. This will make a house that is 
easily cleaned, ducks have free range and it is most 
convenient for the operator, as one has full view 
through the house from one end to the other, 



62 

Preparing for Show Room. 

This part is in favor of the Indian Runners. Have 
a box or tub so that ducks can take a good bath them- 
selves, and if you give them a good washing once 
that is all that is required unless you leave your ducks 
get crusty, when they will require more washing. As a 
rule the Runner seems to know that you want her to 
carry an erect carriage with head up, which indicates 
she is true to what she is charged with. However, 
the Runner needs more training or handling than do 
other strains of ducks. The Runner has that wild 
disposition, and she must be handled very gently so 
that she knows that you will do her no harm. Handle 
her often. Take her from the coop, train her just 
as the judges do, so that when the time for judging 
comes that she is ready to be handled when the judge 
opens the coop for judging. It will pay you to do 
this work. Otherwise she may fly around in the coop 
and break some of her best feathers or the judge is 
unable to judge her as well as if she were more tame. 
If wild, the judge is always in too much of a hurry 
to coop her up and the judge will not do her justice. 
The best way is to coop the Runners one week and 
handle them often but very carefully, and you will 
be well paid for your work you have spent in training 
her. 



63 

Eggs for Hatching. 

This is a very important matter. Those who have 
the eggs for sale will tell you eggs that are four to 
nine weeks old are all right. If you want a strain very 
badly, and you are unable to get fresh ones, they are 
better than none, but you may not succeed in getting 
the strain. Otherwise always use eggs as fresh as 
you can. Best records will show that the eggs were 
freshly laid, one, two and three days old, and laid 
in one day from one flock. If you use partly fresh 
eggs and partly week old eggs, there is a difference 
in incubation as to hatching of those chicks or ducks. 
Uniformity in size, not too small or too large, all 
depends on the selection of your eggs for a good 
hatch. Eggs intended for hatching should always be 
kept in a cool place, ducks eggs especially, as the fer- 
tility will change at a temperature of about 85 to 90 
degrees and will be worthless. A duck egg will spoil 
in three or four days at the above temperature. The 
best temperature is from 45 to 50 degrees, and eggs 
may be kept from two to three weeks. However, run 
no chances. Set as fresh as possible to have best re- 
sults. Duck eggs should never be over four days old 
to ship. Transportation does not affect eggs unless 
too extremely hot or cold, as the case may be. 



, ^ 64 __ 

Details in General, 

Always handle your ducks by the neck. Grasp a 
quick grab by the neck. In this way you will never 
injure a duck when sorting them or when you want 
to catch your ducks. The best way is to have a corner 
in your yard and have a three foot wire netting fast- 
ened or stretched from one side to the other. In this 
way you can easily catch birds with the least com- 
motion. Otherwise you may have a loss of a good 
bird in trying to break away from you. A duck can 
run so fast and no faster. She will be so much fright- 
ened that she cannot run at all and will lose control 
of her feet, and if the chase is kept up any length of 
time it will ruin her so that she will not be able to 
walk. The weaker ones are more subject to this ; 
however, you can kill your very best ducks in this 
way. It is best to keep dogs and children out of the 
duck pen, as a chase of your ducks may soon reverse 
your bank account. 

Never feed your ducks with salt, as salt mixed with 
your feed may kill all your birds that partake of it. 
When salt is used, it should be dissolved in water first. 
However, ducks need no salt. If you want to kill 
your dueks, just feed them salt. It works like poison. 
A duck poisoned will have no use of her legs and 
cannot walk, and will soon die, and if you will examine 
her gizzard no trace can be found of what killed her. 
The Runner ducks are very fond of apples, and if 
apples are crushed and fed once a day it will lessen 
your feed bill. All kinds of greens, cut fine and mixed 
in their mess, will help their growth. Green cut rye, 
green clover, sugar corn stalks, and all cut very fine. 



i 65 

all they will eat up clean at once, green rafe, sugar 
beets, cut very fine, is very good for them. During 
the winter when all other greens are gone, cabbage, 
potatoes (boiled), alfafa, clover meal soaked with 
your mess, also fine cut clover soaked from one meal 
to another in a tub or bucket, will be enjoyed by 
them and will lessen your feed, bill into half. When 
once you get your ducks laying, never reverse their 
feed whatever the combination may be. If you do^ 
your egg flow will stop. Watch your ducks and only 
feed all they will eat up clean at once, except the last 
feed in the evening. Feed only at noon and evening 
for the best results. Have water to drink all the time, 
as a duck is never satisfied unless she can slop in a 
little water and have everything wet. Ducks should 
never be cut down with their feed too much when 
moulting. If you do, you run chances of losing some 
and it may be your best ducks. I find by not chang- 
ing the feed of the layers I get the best results, as 
they keep laying (a big portion of them) even when 
half of their feathers are gone. By keeping my feed 
the same, they pass through the moult and are ready 
to lay again in a short time after the moult. At this 
writing, September 28th, my ducks are laying a few 
eggs and are moulting. I am now giving them free 
range; however, by November 1st, I house them in 
their winter quarters and start to feed them a little 
more fattening feed so as to get them laying about 
December 1st or 15th. Be very careful not to get 
them too fat. If you do, they will not lay until late 
in the spring. This will be a loss to you. This can 
be avoided by careful feeding. 



66 



P. S. — Every time a new edition of this bcok 
is printed - it will be enlarged, containing my ex- 
periments with my Indian Runners. 




One copy del. to Cat. Div. 



NOV 



002 856 649 9 




